Larry's Central American Travels

The Current View From Central America

A Quick Return Trip To Costa Rica

Last weekend I went back up to Golfito, Costa Rica were I had spent eight months before moving to Panama. My friends, John and Sally, were hosting their annual 'Christmas in July' party at their Latitude Ocho Bar.  It had been almost seven months since I had been to Golfito, and this trip was a shock.

Panama, as I have mentioned before, continues to be impacted very little by the on-going world-wide economic crises. Tourism figures are up, as is the GNP growth figures.  Unemployment figures and inflation rates are holding steady. And the national bank, which never got involved in the 'funny money' financing business, is on track to report its second successive annual record profits. And, we are insulated from the fluctuations of the U.S. dollar because that is the Panamanian currency.

I had seen some of the  impact of the economic crises when I was back in Wilmington, N.C., in May.  But, nothing like what I observed in Golfito. Golfito was a ghost town!

I noticed the light traffic on the highway from the border to Golfito - especially light for a Friday afternoon. But, the main drag of Golfito was deserted.  This is basically a one-street town, the highway runs along the bay through the five-mile length of town, and is usually clogged with cars, trucks, buses and hordes of taxis.  Not this day.

I stayed at the Banana Bay Marina at about the midpoint in town, which is usually a beehive of activities.  Luxury yachts visiting, fishing boats coming and going daily, and bar/restaurant patrons from the community normally keep the place buzzing.  None of this was happening.  For three mornings I 'wasted' about two hours daily eating  breakfast, reading my book and enjoyed the beautiful views of the bay, in virtual isolation.  No people, no boat traffic - nothing.  And on Saturday evening about 6PM, I left the bar and walked over to my room to get cleaned up to go to Sally's party.  This is the bar, by the way, that a couple of years ago, you couldn't find an empty seat on a Saturday night. When I came out of my room an hour later, the place was closed - the entire marina!  The bar, the office, and the marina docking area were all closed. I had to get the only employee still there, the security guy to let me out.

I found out later that the other big luxury marina in town, Gaviotas, had closed and shuttered its bar and restaurant the week before. Question: How do you service the luxury boat traffic at your marina without a bar and restaurant?  Obvious Answer: You don't!  Ouch!  Sign of the times.

The Big News in Costa Rica.

The leadership crises in Honduras is getting a lot of coverage in Costa Rica, partly due to the fact that the Costa Rican president is serving as the mediator trying to peacefully resolve the issues.  President Oscar Arias' international credentials derive from some of  his  accomplishments in a previous tenure as the country's president (1986-1990).  Arias was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 1987 for his pivotal role in resolving an even bigger crises in the region resolving issues involving four different belligerent presidents from four countries, three of which were also in the middle of civil wars.

The reason I mention the 'Honduran Crises' is that to me it is stunning how different the press coverage of this situation is between the  U.S. press and the press down here. It is as if the U.S. (and the world) press got in on this story late (which they did), and are overlooking the specifics and the facts of the case, or are choosing to overlook the facts in an effort to appease whomever.

This story 'hit the fan' in the U.S. press on June 28th when President Zelaya was arrested by the Honduran military and subsequently expelled from the country.  The press throughout the world trumpeted the 'fact' that this was a military coup.  For starters, the military did not remove the president and take over the government.  Therefore, the military coup characterization is factually incorrect. 

The military action was directed by the Supreme Court, which under their constitution, is the sole government agency authorized to issue such a directive.  Failure to carry out  a Supreme Court directive is, also per the constitution,  a crime punishable under very specific laws.  Note that the court's directive also had the concurrence of the nation's congress.  Well, what is this all about?

President Zelaya decided to conduct a 'non-binding referendum' to determine the publics' opinion on him succeeded himself as president, the tactic used in recent years by his leftist dictator buddies' actions - Chavez (Venezuela), Morales (Bolivia), Ortega (Nicaragua), et. al.   The problem is that the constitution says that only congress can amend the constitution, AND that initiatives to generate such reforms can only legally originate within that body.

Zelaya was advised by both the congress and the court that his initiative was illegal, and a direct violation of specific court legal directives.  In response, he then proceeded to have the referendum 'ballots' printed, ironically printed in Venezuela. (I guess Chavez is the 'grand poo-bah' of printing as well)  The court subsequently had the ballots impounded, and again chastised Zelaya.

Most of the free press coverage in Central America report that the 'real' coup attempt started three days before the  'military coup' reported in the rest of the world - a coup-like attempt by Zeyala.   Zelaya, on June 25th, rounded up hundreds of his supporters at the Presidential Palace, loaded them on buses and they descended on the Hernan Air Force Base.  He personally browbeat the military guards, and then his supporters with his active  involvement, confiscated and hauled off the boxes of ballots.

At this juncture, both the court and the congress called for Zelaya's resignation, citing Article 239 of the constitution that states that "no person who has ever served as president can become president or vice president," and, more importantly, "anyone serving in the office who violates or proposes reforming the succession restrictions, or supports such a violation, either directly or indirectly, will immediately cease in their official capacity and be unable to hold any public office for a period of 10 years."

Note that the law specifically says 'immediately cease' and does not even mention impeachment proceedings or trial requirements.  And yet Obama, the 'American Grand Appeaser',  who could only muster a 'no comment' reaction to the calamity in Iran, is calling for Zelaya to be reinstated.  Well I guess another country's democratic constitution doesn't make any difference if you run the risk of being dropped from Chavez's Book-Of-The-Month club.  God, I wish someone else was down here trying to explain the Gospel According To Obama to these folks down here who have tried so hard for so many years to be unabashedly pro-American.

 Red-Neck Ticos?

Last Friday night there was a live nationwide telecast of the annual rodeo in  Gaunacaste, Costa Rica, up near the Nicaraguan border.  The main event was the bull riding.  You have probably seen a bull riding event, but let me tell you, there are a couple of differences in the Tico version of bull riding.

Yes, the bulls are still big, mean and not inclined to being ridden.  But, the riders don't wear boots, pearl-buttoned shirts, Stetsons, and big beltbuckles.  No, El Montadors, as they are called, most common uniform consists of flip-flops, T-shirts, and baseball caps. Well, except for the two guys who had spurs strapped on their bare feet.

But, the big difference was in the bull-riding ring itself.  Yes, there was still a clown (payaso) contingent to distract the bull when the rider got thrown.  But, they were joined in the ring by about a hundred dare-devil spectators. My God, I have never seen anything like it.  It made that annual 'running of the bulls' thing in Spain,  look like a stroll in the park.  At least in that event all the traffic is going in the same direction.  Imagine if the bulls were coming from both ends of the street. Or maybe a NASCAR race where part of the cars were going in the opposite direction.

After watching several of these rides (and consuming a few beers), a couple of  other things struck me.  I guess I became an expert?  First off, when that bull comes out of the chute, suddenly presented with all those targets on his horizon, he really go berserk.  I saw bulls do maneuvers and make moves I had never seen before.  Still can't figure out how a two ton bull can go two directions at once.

Plus, all the bulls seem to have an additional innate talent.  Regardless of how distracted they may seem to be by all the confusion, they know when that rider comes off.  And, just as the traditional rodeo clowns sometimes have problems distracting the bull away from the fallen rider, adding an additional 100 antagonists to the equation does not seem to matter.  That bull is not distracted by even those people slapping him on the side or pulling his tail, until he has run that S.O.B. who got him in this mess right through the fence rails.  Aieee or Yee Haw, take your pick.

Till Next Time. Pura Vida!

The View From Panama

The Annual Festival At Los Santos

This week is the annual festival in the city of Las Tablas, the capitol of Los Santos Province on Panama's Azuero Peninsula. For this festival, one of the largest in Panama, the small town of Las Tablas somehow manages to absorb 25,000+ visitors for the week's activities.  Each year an estimated 2,000 Panamanians who live abroad return for the festival, joined by thousands of foreign visitors who come from all over the world. 

The first portion of the festival is religious, celebrating the town's patron saint, the Virgin Santa Libra.  Eight days of mourning and 'novenas' by the faithful lead up to the festival's opening, the Monday morning Virgin Santa Libra procession.  The saint is carried through the town in a magnificent procession atop a lavishly decorated float, adorned in gold jewelry, and with a long, flowing wig made of locks donated by the faithful.

The remainder of the week gives way to the nation's largest folklore festival.  The highlight is the national Pollera competition, the traditional folklore women's dress.  Well, some would argue that the big highlight is actually the crowning of the year's National Pollera Queen.  This year's winner, Lizanette Guadalupe Tinajero Jaen (picture on right), will wear seven different designer versions of the pollera during the week's events.

In addition to the pollera competition, the queen will preside over a violin competiton, and  for the first time this year, an accordion competition, both staples in the traditional folk 'tipico musica.'  She also will preside over the traditional menswear competition, the traditional hat and shirt (sombrero y camisilla tipico, picture on left).

And, did I mention?  More parades, floats, singing, street dances, music, bands, and bull runs, and all-night-er parties in the park.  And, beer.  And, more beer.   Phew!

 

 

 

A  New Video

I mentioned earlier that my good friend Jorge is a Bolivian, and that I was, at his wife´s request, putting together a video for him.  Well, I found Bolivia to be so unique and interesting that I produced two.  Here is the first one.

P.S. I got more feedback on my Military Tribute video than all my other videos combined.  Thank you for the nice comments.

The Landing On The Moon

The TV coverage surrounding the 40th anniversary of the U.S. landing on the moon is getting a lot of attention here.  In fact, it seemed like an inordinate amount, so I started asking questions.  Well, the reason for the interest is that a lot of people, particularly older folks, doubt the whole thing.  Yes, they think the whole thing is some kind of a Disney exercise of some kind.

How could that be?  Well, you have to rewind the clock 40 years to appreciate the phenomena.  I remembered a blog article I posted a couple years ago, so I dug around and found it.  This may help you understand.  I also think you will find it interesting, when dates are mentioned, to flash back and think about where you were and what you were doing at that time by comparison.

The experiences cited below revolve around Pavones, Costa Rica.  Pavones is a surfer's paradise on Costa Rica  southern Pacific coast.  And the only reason it is not a surfer's mecca is that is still virtually inaccessible to this day.  A two hour trip by car on rough roads, after you leave the hard surfaced roads.  And, the bus ride on those same roads to me sounds more like a sentence than a ride. In short, in my opinion, you have to be a surfer and really want to get there, to enjoy the beauty of Pavones in person.

The following notes are excerpts from interviews with a Senor Jose Antonio Sandi conducted by author Anne Weston in the summers of 2003 and 2004.

...  My family first came to Pavones in 1959, when I was 14, on what you Gringos call a vacation. The only way to get there was to take a dugout boat from Golfito to Zancudo and walk down the beach to Pavones.  There were no roads, no trails, no people, no stores. You carried your baggage, food and supplies – everything to last until you returned to Golfito. You stayed on the beach – the jungle came right down to the beach.  You were afraid to leave the beach, afraid of the jaguars and snakes. We went during the dry season and just slept on the beach.

[Ed: His family later moved to Pavones in 1965] .... We were in a wilderness outpost.  There was no radio, nothing to do at night (you didn't dare venture out), so we gather in someone's casa and listened to the elders tell stories. The elders were not worldly or educated people and I'm sure they meant well, but they didn't tell about Uncle Rabbit or Aunt Panchita (traditional Tico children's' stories).  Instead they talked of the dangers outside (and they were all personal experiences – even though you might hear the same 'personal' experience from many people over the weeks??).  Wildcats, pumas, witches, monkey-woman and worse!  These stories take hold of you – the solitude, the darkness, the isolation – you live in a state of tension like a rabbit!  And keep in mind I was an adult, 20 years old.  When you leave for home at night you don't make eye contact, don't speak to anyone – 'What if that is not really Ramon, but a witch-woman impersonating Ramon?'

.....   We heard of your moon landing on radio years before (Ed note: 1969) – a few people had small transistor radios.  We did not believe it, everyone was certain it was – what you call? - a hoax.  Only my grandfather believed it, but he was so old, everyone just thought he was crazy.  Moon landing, ha!  There are those who still don't believe it.

...... The first TV I ever saw was at Alfredo Monchin's place – that was 1980.  He was well off and had a generator, but had to conserve fuel so the TV was only on for special things. Then in late 1980, the Don Cuyo got a solar panel and he had a 'meeting' on Sundays to watch his TV.  It was almost mandatory. Ha! We lived an hours walk away, but seeing TV was such a joy!   Sometime in mid 1981, I saw a video of the moon landing. The picture was fuzzy.  How could we know it was the moon?  You couldn't even tell if they were really Americans. [Larry notes: That was about 12 years after the moon landing. Can you believe that?]

Everything Is Not Easy Here

Periodically I get slapped in the face with things that are just too hard to explain.  And a lot of it comes from the fact that the folks here in David watch a lot of American films.  I think every movie channel that you get, we get here on the satellite, plus a few local channels that show American movies dubbed in  Spanish. My friends and acquaintances here expect me to be able to explain all those things they see, but don't understand.

For instance, the old westerns movies are really popular. Can you imagine trying to explain  the practice of chewing tobacco to people who live in a no-smoking country.  They looked at me like I was crazy as I tried to explain.

The real kicker however is the movie 'Oh Brother, Where Art Thou.' I think one of the reasons that this movie is telecast here repeatedly and so frequently is that I am not sure they understand the movie is set in a period 60-70 years ago.  Some of them think that they are getting a peak at life in the 'interior' of the U.S.

But, the question that keeps coming up has to do with the several scenes in the movie where someone is sitting around whittling.  Now my grandfather, being a good old boy from the Ozark mountains of Arkansas, carried a knife his entire life thats only purpose was for whittling. But, try to explain that.  "No Juan, he is not trimming that branch to repair the roof on his house.  And, yes it does dull the knife, but he just sharpens it when it gets dull.  Well, he sharpens it so he can whittle. No, he is not carving, he is whittling. No Juan, he is not trimming that branch to repair the roof on his house."  Tilt!

Come to think of it, I'm not sure I could explain whittling to my own grand-kids, and we speak the same language -  well, sort of.

Until Next Time.  Pura Vida!

Click on the thumbnails to view full-size photos.

Things Are Rocking In Panama

 Guess I Am Not A 'Real' Panamanian

I had advised you previously that the Panamanians eat  just about everything imaginable for breakfast. The buffet line in the restaurant downstairs, adds a few breakfast items, but  basically offers the same selections at 7AM as they do at 7PM. Noticeable in its absence in the breakfast options is toast.  Except in the upscale hotels catering to the American tourists, toast as we know it, is an unknown.

But, the Panamanians have their own breakfast bread items. One of the more popular selections is what the call tortilla maíz.  About the size of a biscuit, the tortilla maíz is made with corn (maíz) meal, and is very similar to a slightly sweetened cornbread.

But the real killer, my discovery of the year, is the hojaldre (O - hall - drah). A wheat flour paste is hand pressed flat (not rolled, so it is varying thicknesses),  and dropped in hot grease.  The resultant bread, due to the varying thickness, is part crunchy, part chewy, part puffy and all heaven. The Panamanians normally eat either a white cheese or hot sauce with it, or both.

In the morning, when I spread my breakfast out on the table on the balcony outside my door, the maids, porters and passing hotel guests are convinced I have become a Panamanian.  Fresh sliced fruit (papaya, melon and pineapple), a big glass of yogurt (strawberry, please) and a couple of hojaldres.  However, they turn a little green around the gills when I doctor up the hojaldre to my likings.    They can't handle even looking at my Skippy peanut butter (crunchy) and Welch's grape jelly.  Oh well, everyone's heaven is different.

By the way, there is  local chicken shack,  down the street that is a 'KFC wanna-be', right down to similar combo menu selections. The Restaurante Pio-Pio, in a departure from the KFC theme, also  offers hojaldre 24/7.  They have them displayed under a heat lamp on the back-bar.  However, their hojaldras are the size of a meat serving platter.  Gives a new meaning to the request, "Super-Size it."

The U.S. Draw-down In Iraq

The latest withdrawal of U.S. troops from Iraq, particularly the coverage of the Iraqi celebrations, motivated me to produce another military tribute video.  I have gotten some nice reviews from some military groups' web sites that I distributed it to.  What do you all think? You can view by clicking on the link below.

 

New Panamanian President Makes His Mark(s)

Ricardo Martinelli was sworn in as Panama's new president on July 1st, after winning the election by a landslide (close to a 70% majority.  The accepted reason for his victory is that Martinelli is a famously successful businessman, but, more importantly, is NOT from one of the handful of Panama's political families that have traded the presidency back and forth for decades. His campaign slogan,  Cambio en Gobenerio, Cambio de Posición (Change in Government, Change in Attitude) resonated with the populace. 

Members of the opposition parties are already complaining that Martinelli's cabinet is "composed mostly of entrepreneurs with low political profile and little experience in national government."  But, few can argue that Martinelli has hit the ground running.  In the first 2+ weeks into his term, he has already filled some campaign promises, and shaken up things in many areas.

- A $100 voucher per month will now be provided by the Panamanian government to elderly over 70 years of age, who do not have a pension. The cost of this program to the government is estimated at $50 million.  However, the deputy Minister of Economy explained that it will actually be paid by an increased tax on the country's casinos.  There, problem solved!

A spokesman for the Association of Gaming Operators says his organization, "has not welcomed the announcement."

-  The new Minister of Education, Lucy Molinar, commented that teacher's unions 'have been impeding required improvements in education for decades."   She added that,  "therefore, they will not be recognized",  and she "rejects the formation of unions."

According to the daily newspaper, El Siglo, "these positions have not been well received by the teachers."

- Major drug busts, including massive volume seizures, in Martinelli's first two weeks have exceeded the drug volume seized in the country in the previous six months. This is partially attributed to a subject that Martinelli covered  in his inauguration speech.  He told the nation that anyone involved in any way with illegal drugs, whether importing, transporting, selling, OR using "would wish they had never even heard of Panama. And, that includes anyone in government or business that is guilty of 'turning a blind eye."  The experts feel that the big busts were due to dealers deciding they needed to get their caches out of the country.

- The new commander of the National Police Martinelli selected is a professional police officer.  Martinelli rejected the position of previous governments that the top law enforcement job had to be a civilian, in order to appease the populace who have an aversion to anything that reminds them of the Military Police of the Noreiga dictatorship.  Martinelli reportedly responded with a 'that is ridiculous!" (The man does not deal in 'politico-speak').  He went on to explain that the problem in the Noriega regime was not the Police Commandant, it was the president. In addition it is a military organization that requires a civilian at the top, "thus the DOD organization in the U.S.," he added.  Case closed.

The new commandante was summoned to the president's office to get his charter straight from the horse's mouth.  It was reported in the press that he was in the president's office less than five minutes.  As General Castillo left the office, he was questioned about the short time he was in there.  Although, Castillo wisely plead, no comment,  he did offer with a smile that "it did not take long for the president to outline what he expected."  Probably didn't need a teleprompter either.

 

Till Next Time. Pura Vida.

Hello Again From Panama

The 4th Of July in David

I woke up on the morning of the 4th of July to a bunch commotion coming from across the street. Set- up activities in David's town park indicated that some kind of festival was scheduled for the day. Sure enough there was a doozy coming.

There were bands, and speeches, and dancers, and queens most of the day.  Then they had groups of marchers, all in matching T-shirts, and some groups with their own marching bands.  And, unlike other events, each group was not carrying a big banner, so I never did get it straight what the occasion was. 

So I just went around all afternoon and evening thanking everyone for throwing a party just for me to celebrate the U.S. Independence Day.  Got some strange looks!

Just FYI

Based on the TV coverage here in Panama, the Supreme Court nomination of Judge Sonomayor is getting more coverage in Latin America than it is in the U.S.  The only news oriented coverage I get from the U.S. is CNN, FOX News and CBS, but they are usually fairly representative of the news media as a whole.  On those channels Sonomayor coverage is pretty low profile.

By contrast, on Latin American channels it seems as if every news talk show, every talking head and every newscast is focused on Sonmayor.  And it is not just the Panamanian channels.  TV Chile, Caracol TV (Colombia) and broadcasts out of Nicaragua and Argentina all seem to be obsessed.  I don't know what they are saying, I just know there is a lot of talking.

Well, on second thought, most of the TV networks down here did not cover Micheal Jackson 24/7 for two+ weeks, so there was air-time´

From The 'Get A Life' Files

There was an influx of Americans that stayed here in the hotel for three days last week.  The folks were about equally split between 'old Panama hands' and tourists in Panama for just a few days.  At some point the conversation turned, probably due to cervaza intake, to a game of 'can you top this?' focused on life in Panama.  It went like this:

You can live in Panama where ....

* You pay $5 to visit the doctor's office, but $13 to mail a letter.  And, if you want that letter to reach the U.S. in less than a week, it costs $55.

* You won't see 'The Hats' because Panama hats don't come from here.

* The deciding factor in selecting your new car is the volume level of the car's horn.  Additionally, it is only on the dealer's trade-in inspection that you discover that your old car has turn signals.

* When you suddenly decide to buy all eight of the people at your table in the bar a beer, you get change back from a $5 bill.

* Your monthly rent for your apartment, including utilities and satellite TV, is about half of what your monthly electric bill was during the summer months in your last house in the U.S.

* Regardless of the glowing descriptions and/or enticing photographs on the restaurant's menu, you do not order any carne (beef) dish assuming that it will be physically possible to chew it.

* It doesn't concern you to know that the FARC guerrillas have a big presence in Darien Province (adjoining Colombia), because there are no roads for them to go anywhere.

* You finally accept that everyone speaks so fast, that you couldn't learn Spanish if you wanted to.

* There are only two seasons - rainy and dry.

The mention of the seasons caused the conversation (game?) to change focus to the U.S. So it became, "You can live in .."

* Phoenix, where the four seasons are: barely tolerable, hot, really hot, and ARE YOU KIDDIN' ME?

* California, where the four seasons are: fire, flood, mud slides and drought.

And then the conversation went all over the place:

* New York City, where being able to swear at people in their native language makes you multilingual.

* Montana and North Dakota, where sexy lingerie is a flannel shirt with less than eight buttons.

* The Deep South, where 'he needed killin' is considered a valid legal defense, especially if the accused has two first names (e.g., Billy Bob or Peggy Sue).

* The Midwest, where when one is queried about their recent trip to some exotic location, invariably responds with, 'it was different'.

There were some other really good ones, but they came after the 'cerveza memory block' set in. I know, I know - Get A Life! Ha!

Sign Of The Economic Times?

I can use my Bank of America ATM card all over this part of the world, no problem. I must admit I am one of those people that was not too sure what some of the ATM charges were back in the U.S., much less what they are now.  But, I do know that I pay a bit of a premium for using my card here.

About a year ago I discovered (the hard way) that here, if I use my ATM card (with the VISA logo on it) as a VISA credit card, BofA charges a 3% charge.  So, when I paid my hotel bill with the card, the transaction cost me an extra $12.  All I had to do was walk next door to the ATM, withdraw the money (pay the BofA $5 foreign ATM charge), and pay the hotel in cash to save $7.  Live and learn.  The savings on just that one transaction is more than an evening's bar bill, my bellwether for evaluating cost savings.

Effective July 1st, there was another change.  There is a credit card processing company here in Panama called Clave.  You learned to avoid ATMs that sported a Clave sign (whether at a bank, a business, or an independent ATM) because their charge was $1.75 on this end, when most of the local banks charged $.50 to use their ATM.  Well, evidently Clave negotiated a mega deal in Panama because now all the ATMs are Clave.  And, surprise, surprise, the local ATM charge on all the machines is now $3.  Ouch. Aren't monopolies a wonderful thing?

My point in all this is that you do change your habit patterns here.  Obviously, you don't go to the ATM and withdraw $100 every other day, as you need it - not if each withdrawal costs you $8. 

But, even more important, for those of you who haven't traveled a lot recently, in this day and age forget travelers checks!  In a two square block area around my hotel,  there are probably 50 places where you can either withdraw cash from an ATM, or use your ATM card to make a purchase, albeit with charges attached.  But, there is only one place where you can use (cash) a travelers check - the bank, with it's 30 minute line.  Also, businesses here do not even accept checks from Panamanians written on a local bank.  The world has gone electronic.

Did You Get The Word?

Here is an interesting one for you.  Our satellite coverage here includes TV Caracol, a Colombian TV network.  TV Caracol is presently running repeatedly a long, 4-5 minute commercial (almost a mini-infomercial) about upcoming festival events celebrating Columbia's Independence Day on July 27th.  The commercial, complete with video and music, details all the specific events, the attractions and entertainers involved, times, places, how to make reservations (if required), parking arrangements, and public transportation connections.

What's notable about this commercial?  The Colombian Independence Day festival activities they are touting are being held in Atlanta.  That is Atlanta, as in Atlanta, Georgia.  Yes, Atlanta, Georgia, USA.  Go figure?

 

Till Next Time.  Pura Vida

My good friend, Jorge, is originally from Bolivia.  I am putting together a video for him.  Here are some ´teaser´photos.  (Just click on the thumbnail to view full-size photo)

The Good Life In Panama

Out Of The Mouths' Of Babes

Today, Hector, the guy who does blood pressure tests was set up on the sidewalk in front of the department store, as he normally is about three days a week. So, I stopped for my weekly BP check.  I should mention Hector is a med school student, and this is the way he fills the med school's community service requirement. I should also mention that he and I have a 'history'.

When I was still 'new' down here, after several stops at Hector's stand, I figured out  that he was kind of a character, just from watching him interact with people on the street.  So I started kidding him.  "You are really a vet student, not a med student, right?", or "You are just here on the corner so you can watch the street vendors and learn a real trade, right?" - that sort of thing. 

It took Hector about two or three encounters with me before he figured out the gringo sense of humor.  The next time I set down, he was ready.  When it came time to read out my numbers, he just gasped, which caught me off guard - much to his delight.  Since then before he tells me my numbers, I normally get, , "You haven't been taking your meds?", or "You need to see your doctor.", or, once even, "I need to call an ambulance."

Meanwhile, back to today.  Just as I sat down in his chair, a woman walked up to be 'next', with a little girl who was probably her grand daughter.  The little girl was precious, a real heart steal-er.  Amazingly pretty, with the big eyes, and a smile that lit up the whole block, the little darlin' immediately started bending my ear.  So, I couldn't resist, when Hector started blowing up the BP cuff, every time he squeezed the bulb and the cuff hiss-ed, I went 'ouch'!

Everyone thought that was funny.  But, after my third 'ouch', the little girl started to look apprehensive, so I decided I better call this off.  I explained to her I was just joking.  She looked at her grandmother who expanded on that, and then she looked at Hector who confirmed it. Crises averted!

A couple minutes later, as I got up to leave, I told the mini-princess again that I was just kidding. The little angel turned to her grandmother and said, "Yo piensa posiblemente el viejo fuerte nada."  What the little  ¿$%&#@!*  said was, 'I thought possibly the old man was not strong.'

Ha!  Don't you love it?

A Tribute To Our Troops On The 4th

A 4th of July video tribute to our servicemen. Click on the link below.

4th of July Video Here

 

Where is Ann Landers When You Need Her?

-  I do not know whether there is a Latino version of 'Miss Manners' or not.  But, I have a protocols question.  At least a dozen people in this funeral procession are carrying on conversations on their cell phones as they 'mourn' down the street. Somehow it just doesn't seem right to me.  I grew up in an era when kids stopped playing and showed respect when a funeral procession passed by the playground. Is it just me?

-  I know this one is me.  It took me almost two years down here to finally realize that I am doing the wrong thing with my dinner napkin. In the few restaurants that I frequent where they use cloth napkins (paper napkins do not count in this discussion), the silverware place setting is wrapped in the napkin.  Panamanians remove the silverware, and then fold the napkin and use it like a coaster for the silverware to lay in.

I just realized the other day that I get strange looks when I unfurl my napkin and place it in my laps.  People were looking at me like 'What is he doing in his lap right here in the restaurant'?  Yikes!

The Strange Times We Live In!

Several French Quarter landmark restaurants have closed their doors and moved to a new 'hot' area of town called, what translates to, West Lake.  This French Quarter evacuation started when renowned chef and cooking show host Bobby Chinn shuttered up his famous Maverick Bistro.

Chinn is very straightforward that is decision to move was triggered when his rent in the French Quarter location was tripled in increments over a year to $45,000 per month.

The strange part of the story?  The French Quarter area in question is in Hanoi.

No Wonder I Am Confused

These four signs are all in the same block around the town square, and they all have to do with parking (parking = estacione).

Estacionamiento
Exclusivo
Para Clientes

Prohibido
Estacionarse
En Area

Solo Para Taxis
No Estacione

Absolutemente
No Estaciones

Ok, as long as you know estacione is parking, you don't have to be fluent in Spanish to figure out these signs.  But, how many iterations of estacione are there?  Jesus, I'm getting a headache!

Till Next Time.  Pura Vida!

Changes In Panama

July 1, 2009 In Panama

Yesterday, Wednesday, July 1st, was Inauguration Day for Panama's new president, Ricardo Martinelli.  As late as Monday, the newspaper were still commenting that a national holiday had not been declared to celebrate Inauguration Day as had become a common practice in previous administration.

Well, guess what?  I woke up Wednesday morning to a deserted, boarded-up downtown.  Even some of the businesses that are normally open on holidays, were closed up tight.  The funny thing is, I could not find a single reference in newspaper, or even TV station web sites, to any type of proclamation making it a holiday.  It is as if the populace decided it was a holiday, weren't told any different, so it was.

Or, maybe I am the only person in the country who did not get the word. Well, I am used to that syndrome.

Wanderlust Urgings On Hold

One of the most interesting channels on the satellite here in David is TV Chile, broadcast out of Santiago.  TV Chile broadcasts a lot of National Geographic-type programs that features sights and attractions throughout the country.  And, there are some awesome sights to see in Chile.  Some of the features are so visually awesome that there is not even any narration, just music and an occasional graphic to tell the viewer what national park, or lake or mountain village they are looking at.

I also like to watch the morning show 'Chile Hoy' (Chile Today), which has a format similar to NBC's Today Show.  I speak just enough Spanish to figure out what the subject being discussed is, even while the specifics may escape me.  But, what really intrigues me about Chile Hoy are the traffic reports.  Huh?, you say. 

Well, there must be two dozen 'sky-cams' mounted on tall buildings around Santiago, and what a visual tour of the city they provide.  Santiago, at least from the sky-cam perspective, is a beautiful place.  The city is clean and modern, with broad tree-lined avenues, and often with wide divider medians complete with flower gardens and mini-parks.  And, the people on the street are well dressed, and noticeably European looking.

So, I decide that I need to put a plan in motion to go spend a few weeks in Chile.  Good idea!  Well, Monday morning when I surfed by Chile Hoy they flashed up a weather forecast for the entire coming week.  The low every night, Monday right through to Sunday, was forecast for zero.  You don't have to remember the formula to convert Centigrade to Fahrenheit to remember that 0(C) is freezing. And, the high for each day was about 13`(C), which works out to about 40 (F).  Oops!  How about a visit during Chilean summer, December or January maybe.  Plan temporarily on hold!

But - BUT - Chilean friends I met on the cruise rounded up tons of photos on the agreement that I would make them a video.  Here is the result, you can see for yourself why I am fascinated by the place.  Stunning!

This link will take you to view the video.

Chile Video

 

Gone Five Weeks - Gotta' Be Re-trained

I was only back in the U.S. for about five weeks.  So, I find it interesting that, upon my return to Panama, I noticed things that were always there, I had just become used to them.  Used to them to the point that my eye for cultural differences was clouded.  Here are examples;

-  As background, according to the press, 95% of the alcohol sold in Panama is beer, almost all of which is 'long-neck' bottles.  In the bars here in David when the waiter brings you another beer, he does not remove the empty.  The table is cleared only after you leave. Put four guys at a table, and a couple of hours and several rounds later, the table top is covered with empty bottles.  Why?  The empty bottles are a cross-check on the tab.  Questions arise - count the empties.  As you might guess, questions do not arise.  Latino efficiency.

-  It is a fairly common occurrence for me to be sitting on the balcony and have people who have just checked into the hotel come walking down the hall, right past their room in some cases, to ask me where their room is.  What is so difficult about matching the number on the key with a number posted on a door?  Or, try this, if the first door is 201, and the next is 203, wouldn't the next logically be 205?

Well, if you live in an environment where things are not numbered it may not be all that logical.  That's right, buildings, businesses, even houses are not numbered - they do not have addresses.  And when you get outside of David, the streets are not marked - no street signs, so no names or numbers.  Therefore, many of the folks are not used to using numbers as identifiers, not do they have any experience in numeric logical progressions.

-  Visitors to the hotel balcony are also often an interesting study.  It hadn't occurred to me before, but David is basically a single-story city.  Some department stores have a second story, but there are no windows in the upstairs floor.  And, since snow-loading is not a concern in this climate, house roofs have very little pitch.  So the peak of the roof in their house is probably no more than eight feet off the ground.

So to some, the 25 foot height of the balcony overlooking the park is nose-bleed altitude.  Many of them approach the railing just like you see people tip-toe to the safety railing perched on the rim of Grand Canyon.  One woman last week ignored the urging of her husband to look down.  She was barely comfortable looking straight out at the park.  And, exuberant kids, who don't know they are supposed to be scared of heights, often end up in a parental choke-hold death grip.

- Given the information above, would it surprise you to learn that the elevator is shunned by many guests in the hotel.  I am aware of only one other elevator in David.  Even other three and four story hotels in town have no elevator. So many guests look with disdain at the elevator.  They undoubtedly classify an elevator ride right up there with bungee jumping or cliff diving.

Reuben Blades Is Back

Reuben Blades is releasing his first record in five years on July 1st, Panama's Presidential Inauguration Day.  Reuben who, you say?  Reuben Blades (in Spanish it is pronounced 'blah dez') is arguably Panama's most famous entertainer, a long-established salsa star who has also appeared in a number of Hollywood films.

Back from where, you ask?  Well, Senor Blades put his highly successful career on hold to serve for the past five years in President Torrijos' cabinet as Panama's Minister of Tourism.  Blades's accomplishments in that position have drawn rave reviews from many quarters, both inside and outside of Panama.  The ´Master Plan of Tourism for Panama´ that he developed and got approved by the national assembly, is a coup that had frustrated, but ultimately escaped a long line of previous ministers.

Blades has volunteered his time and talent to his replacement in the Martinelli government.  He has laid out a plan where he will donate musical advertising spots  promoting tourism in Panama.

One of the songs from the new album was released to Panama's TV stations on the eve of the inauguration.  The song "La Perla" really highlights Blades' salsa talents, as well as his impish sense of humor.  At the end of the song, he sings thanks to 'el residente y el visitante' (residents and visitors), concluding with the announcement 'se retira el ministro' (the minister retires).

Goodbye Minister Blades, but Welcome Back Ruben Blades!

Too Good To Pass Up!

My friend, Maureen in Wilmington, sent this to me.  A Classic!

He´s My Brother

Two young boys walked into a pharmacy one day, picked out a box of tampons and proceeded to the checkout counter.

The man at the counter asked the older boy, "Son, how old are you?"

"Eight," the boy replied.

The man continued, "Do you know what these are used for?"

The boy replied, "Not exactly, but they aren't for me.  They're for him. He's my brother.  He's four. We saw on TV that if you use these you would be able to swim and ride a bike. Right now, he can't do either."

Till Next Time.  Pura Vida.