Ain't Seen Carnaval In Las Tablas? You Ain't Seen Carnaval!
During Panama's Carnaval Season, in addition to the Panama City celebration, there are five full-blown carnavals in other cities. But, the real mother of them all is the shindig in Los Santos Province's city of Las Tablas. Each year over a 100,000 people come from all over Panama (in fact, all over this part of the world) attend the four-day blow-out in Las Tablas. Several travel writers contend that Las Tablas celebration is bigger and more elaborate than it's more famous competition in Rio. And , Madi Gras in New Orleans is more like a large family reunion by comparison. Yea, no kidding.
A little history to put this in perspective. Fifty-one years ago, the Carnaval planning committee in Las Tablas got in a peeing contest about something (no one can remember what), and the results was, reluctantly, one celebration, but with two separate groups organizing their own portion of it. And, although the first year was contentious, from that point forward the now-friendly competition has spurred amazing results. Each year the teams fron Calle Arriba and Calle Abajo (which literally translate to up- street and down-street, but in our parlance is more like up-town and down-town) literally work year-round on the next production. The floats and costumes cost tens of thousands of dollars, and it is estimated that EACH team spends about a quarter of a million dollars. All the money is raised (year round) by contributions and fund-raising drives.
So what else makes the Las Tablas Carnaval so famous? Well, for starters they assume that people are going to celebrate all four days, not just one or two days as in Panama city (which in Panama becomes a self-full-filing prophecy). So you have to change the show everyday. One day is always reserved for Panama (tipico) day, and Sunday is always queen's day (The Panamanian haven´t named this day, so I tagged it as "Crowns, Gowns and Clowns" day). The theme for this year's two extra days was Greek mythology and Japanese warriors.( I an not kidding) This results in each team designing four completely different sets of floats, costumes, decorations, etc.
Due to the two-team concept, the celebration day length is loooong! The day's first celebration, kicks off at sunrise, and the last of the day at the stroke of midnight. And, during the afternoon hours, all the parades include fire department water trucks which cool the crowds down in the central park. Hint: If you don't want to get wet, watch the parade from someplace other than the park. As you might suspect, as the afternoon wears on, the crowds in the park grow. (Suspect the 'beer factor')
And you can't overlook each queen's 'tunas'. The tunas are a group of people who spend all year composing songs and practicing them in secrecy. They then perform their music from a float just behind the queens float. Their songs (or limericks) exhalt the virtues of their queen, and highlight the faults of the other´s queen. The whole idea is to determine can create the best good natured insults without being mean spirited.
Don't overlook the fact that this 'queen thing' is a BIG deal. The queens are crowned on Fridays in a Las Vegas show-style ceremonies with spectacular music and dance productions.
Calle Arriba's first queen, 51 years ago, is the reigning queen's grandmother (her mother is a past-queen as well). The queen is groomed to be queen for about five years. [Not sure what you do to groom someone to smile and wave from a float]. Not to be out-done, the Calle Abajo queen comes from a long line of former queens - both grandmothers, her mother, three aunts and three older sisters. And, twice during the four days, there is a former queen's float.
Wednesday mornings the queens face-off for the first time. This is done by each side throwing boxes upon boxes of firecrackers on separate bonfires. And, yes, that is a competition as well.
After the Monday conclusion of the carnaval, in recent years, the drive time back to Panama city is doubled on both Tuesday and Wednesdays. So many savvy travelers are now waiting until Thursday.
Phew! This carnaval thing could kill you.